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Season’s Greetings in photo format

Seasons Greetings card EN

Row 1 from left to right:

Photo 1: Amsterdam, with our little, orange bird Wilhelmusje, one of the mascots to the Dutch football team during the World Cup 2014 and promoting the national anthem of the Netherlands: ‘t Wilhelmus

Photo 2: Armenia – Khashkar or Armenian stone cross, expression of Medieval Armenian Christian art, elaborate stone carved crosses, you find them everywhere in Armenia, one more detailed than the other

Photo 3: Vatican City, in St Peter’s Church, a museum in itself

Photo 4: Somewhere on a mountain in northern Italy, probably in the Dolomites

Photo 5: Turkey, Istanbul, bazaar

Row 2 from left to right:

Photo 1: Southeast of France, Val d’Isère, in winter a booming sky resort, with 1oC in June! This is what the inside of our home looked like.

Photo 2: Italy, Alberobello, typical drystone houses, known as ‘trulli’ in the province of Bari, in the Puglia region

Photo 3: Dancing at the wedding of Stefani’s sister

Photo 4: Rome, the Colosseum, an elliptic, Flavian Amphitheatre in the centre of Rome

Photo 5: Turkey, Istanbul, either the Hagia Sofia or Sultan Ahmed (Blue) Mosque, photo taken from the other side of the Bosphorus

Row 3 from left to right:

Photo 1: Georgia, Batumi, the (Georgian) alphabet tower

Photo 2: Turkey, Karadut, near Nemrut Dagi, where we set up camp for three days at this delightful camp site. As mentioned, Saeed is our ChefJ

Photo 3: a kiss somewhere in Italy

Photo 4: Turkey, ruins of Hattuşaş, the Lion Gate. Hattuşa was the capital of the Hittite Empire in the late Bronze Age.

Photo 5: Italy, Fontana della Barcaccia in Rocca di Papa, one of the Castelli Romani, seven towns, in the hills southeast of Rome

Row 4 from left to right:

Photo 1: A sunset and attempt of some fun photography… in Iran or Oman

Photo 2: Georgia, Stepantsminda, formerly Kazbegi and still known as such, and its idyllic Gergeti Trinity Church on top of the mountain, a famous landmark most people will recognize.

Photo 3: Italy, on a mountain top near a war memorial, the highest point of the mountain always sign posted

Photo 4: Iran, Neyshapur, Omar Khayyam’s mausoleum (famous Iranian philosopher, astronomer, mathematician and poet, most famous for his Rubaiyat)

Photo 5: Oman, near Wadi Ash Shab, in the direction of the village Qur’ran on a mountain plateau where Saeed shows the goats passing by how to brush one’s teeth;).

 

Season’s Greetings

Dear Family and Friends,

We hope this letter and our wishes find you well and happy.

What a year it has been! Living our dream has been satisfying and rewarding, although it also has its challenges.

Attached you will find a few of our photos with our best wishes and Season’s Greetings.

Two and a half years ago we watched the film “The Bucket List” after which I asked Saeed what the one thing is, he wished to do before he will die: Travel by car to the other side of the world. Well, why don’t we??? And our dream was born.

We have been on the road since the 17th of June 2014 and travelled by car from London through fourteen countries, experiencing the gradual change of people, physical features, ways of living, dress, food, accommodation, cultures, landscape, traffic, … travelling from west to east.

We have much enjoyed Georgia for its green landscape and Kazbegi; Oman for its wild camping opportunities, watching the stars and waking up with either goats, cows or camels next to the car; and Iran for its many enriching and historically important sights. Turkey for its Zeugma mosaic museum and the one camping site we so enjoyed to rest; Greece for Meteora, monastries on pinnacles of mountain tops; and Italy for the Dolomites with their many ‘tornantes’ (hair pin bends) and the impressive history by visiting Rome. Every country we passed through has left an imprint on our eyes, our heart and memory and it is a delight to browse through the many photos we have and relive the journey.

We have met with so many of our friends en route, and met many new people while on the road. Thank you all for your hospitality and kindness, we so much appreciate it, be it because you came especially over to see us, you made time in a busy schedule, you welcomed us in your home and gave us a possibility to get to our senses, or we just had a chat about life, the journey and day-to-day things: Thank you ˜ спасибо ˜ Grazie ˜ Sağ ol ˜ Dank je wel ˜ ありがとう ˜ დიდი მადლობა ˜ Vielen Dank ˜ Merci ˜ تشکر از شما ˜ Muchas gracias ˜ დიდი მადლობა ˜  شكرا ˜ Tak ˜ Teşekkür ederim ˜ 감사합니다˜ Hvala.

We have learned to divide the roles: Saeed drives, cooks, does the shopping, makes tea in the morning and is our safety & security officer; I navigate, turn the car around for sleeping and travelling (i.e. put all stuff from the back in the passenger front seat in the evening and put it back ‘on the bed’ in the morning), make breakfast, keep track of the budget, do stock management and read through the guide books. Together we plan, have much fun photographing, absorbing the scenery and noticing little nuggets of interest on the road.

The most scary moment on the road came in Georgia when we ended up in a heavy hail storm on a one-car-width off-road along a mountain, while driving to the next village from Kazbegi to look for a camping. There was a hill of stones we had to pass over while ground and stones were washing away from underneath and beside our car, the wipers were actively wiping away and you could hardly see a hand before your eyes. And to top it, there were two cars waiting a bit further on the road where we would be able to pass each other. After several attempts, we decided to reverse to a wider space a bit below as we couldn’t hurdle the hill of stones. One of the oncoming cars came forward, a woman came out into the hail and rain and by hand took away stones to flatten the area. So simple, but we had been so caught by fear that our minds had left us. When they passed us a little down the road, they assured us we would be able to continue our journey without further problems. Phfew!

The most heart-warming experience we’ve had were many, but when there was ticking on the window at 6am one morning when having slept in the car on the parking of Jabreen Castle in Oman, we first thought it was a bird, as we had noticed this happening before and we saw one on the mirror. More ticking. Saeed opens the curtains wider and sees the guard of the castle standing outside with a cup of tea! What a delightful good morning!

Questions of life, what would we like to set up together, where would we like to be, what would we like to create for our future, have been joining us on our journey. Definite answers have not filtered through yet and in the end might not show up, however we feel good talking about these things while on the road and use our imagination. Everything is possible!

We are looking forward to continuing our travels beginning of January to drive to the border with Turkey and from here to Greece, Athens, continuing to Italy and we’ll see where we’ll head for next. Tunisia and Morocco are some wishes, depending on the feasibility/political situation and budget necessary for ferry crossings. The coastal road of Italy, Spain, Portugal and France are also on the list and from here travelling a little more north to the Netherlands, before returning to London.

We look much forward to meeting again old and new friends and wish you all a wonderful winter period with a sparkling start into the New Year.

Much love and big hug,

Saeed & Stefani

PS: our website www.WorldDonya.com has proven to be more work to keep up to date than we thought, we wished to be more disciplined despite the circumstances. We hope to post again soon;).

Yazd

Our arrival in Yazd after a whole day of nothingness through the desert was very welcome, although it was from one extreme, quietness on the road, not much going on, to another of city busyness, lots of cars and noise.
First stop: the Zoroastrian fire temple (ateshkadeh) where the fire has been burning for many long centuries. The sign of Zoroaster, the Farvahar, embellishes the building. We were just in time before closure and so enjoyed the sunset at this delightful place.
Then on our way to the park-e mosafer or traveller’s park to park for the night. We were directed to Haft-e tir park at a very busy road. After having driven the whole day though, we were happy to just stop and have a simple dinner on a bench in the park. A stroll into Yazd had us pass and enter an ice cream shop and notice was taken of an Italian (!) coffee shop, which was closed but to be kept in mind. Upon our return to the car, the parking attendant Continue reading Yazd

More post cards from Iran (3), the North

26 September: 4x4iran.com invited us for a weekend away, off-roading in the mountains and rain forests in North of Iran. We had a spectacular time. The sadness of leaving the family in Tehran was easier to deal with as our journey continues.
26 September: 4x4iran.com invited us for a weekend away, off-roading in the mountains and rain forests in North of Iran. We had a spectacular time. The sadness of leaving the family in Tehran was easier to deal with as our journey continues.
27 September: Mil-e Radkaan tower, 1000 years old and situated in the valleys of Radkaan beyond Kurdkoy city. 2 hours steep 4x4 climb through rain forest and mountains to reach. Now enjoying local bread and cheese and silence, mist and wind.
27 September: Mil-e Radkaan tower, 1000 years old and situated in the valleys of Radkaan beyond Kordkuy city. 2 hours steep 4×4 climb through rain forest and mountains to reach. Now enjoying local bread and cheese and silence, mist and wind.... and herewith the actual tower!… and herewith the actual tower!
28 September: A pagan cemetery, world-unique(!), in north-east of Iran, near Khaled Nabi shrine, a 15 min walk from one of the three shrines. The cemetery: a celebration of life with tombstones of phalluses for men and butterflies/angels for women.  4 hours return journey from Gonbad Kavus, a 4x4 drive well-worth it! (Khaled Nabi was a Nestorian-Christian, see tiny white church with green roof to the right above the spectacular sea of steppe hills).
28 September: A pagan cemetery, world-unique(!), in north-east of Iran, near Khaled Nabi shrine, a 15 min walk from one of the three shrines.
The cemetery: a celebration of life with tombstones of phalluses for men and butterflies/angels for women.
4 hours return journey from Gonbad Kavus, a 4×4 drive well-worth it!
(Khaled Nabi was a Nestorian-Christian, see tiny white church with green roof above the spectacular sea of steppe hills). ... and the shrine itself.
30 September: Haram-e razavi, or holy shrine visit in Mashhad; no cameras allowed, but mobile phones are ok (logic?) and chador obliged.
30 September: Haram-e razavi, or holy shrine visit in Mashhad; no cameras allowed, but mobile phones are ok (logic?) and chador obliged. 

Iran16 Masshad

30 September: Neyshabur, Omar Khayyam's mausoleum; great Iranian astronomer, philosopher, sufi, poet, who is best known around the world for his 'rubayat'. Killed by the Mongolian black army when they attacked Neyshabur, capital of Tabarestan, which used to be one of the 'stan' states of Iran. A peaceful contrast to our chaotic morning visit in Mashhad.
30 September: Neyshabur, Omar Khayyam’s mausoleum; great Iranian astronomer, philosopher, sufi, poet, who is best known around the world for his ‘rubayat’. Killed by the Mongolian black army when they attacked Neyshabur, capital of Tabarestan, which used to be one of the ‘stan’ states of Iran. A peaceful contrast to our chaotic morning visit in Mashhad.

Travelling through Iran, from Tehran north, east to central

We have had the amazing luxury of travelling for seven (!) weeks through this amazing country with its incredible historical sights.

When in Tehran, we had to make the hard decision to deviate from our initial dream to visit the Stans. We put two and two together and realised it would be a very challenging situation due to weather conditions changing rapidly into winter, therefore road availability questionable, time and monies needed to obtain all required visas and (responsibility and loyalty kicking in) being  on time in Abu Dhabi for Abu Dhabi Art beginning of November. Five weeks would not be enough to see all the five Stans, not even to see four, three, not even two (only Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan), as upon our return we would have to cross Iran from north to south to take the ferry to the United Arab Emirates from Bandar Abbas and that would take at least three days flat out ONLY driving. We decided to spend far more time than initially planned, in Iran.

From Tehran we went into the mountains of Kelardascht, off-roading with 4x4Iran.com, a wonderful bunch. For the first time Continue reading Travelling through Iran, from Tehran north, east to central

Post cards from…Iran (2), Tehran

16 September: Meeting up with lovely Helle in her Ferdowsi hotel lobby in Tehran
16 September: Meeting up with lovely Helle in her Ferdowsi hotel lobby in Tehran.
23 September: Laleh-zar street, messengers' hub for the bazaar city. Bikes and more bikes...
23 September: Laleh-zar street, messengers’ hub for the bazaar city. Bikes and more bikes…
21 September: Our last days in Tehran, after some very hard decisions we had to make about our next destination in our journey, we continue our explorations of Iran's treasures of sights and cities. National Garden's gates in Tehran.
21 September: Our last days in Tehran, after some very hard decisions we had to make about our next destination in our journey, we continue our explorations of Iran’s treasures of sights and cities. National Garden’s gates in Tehran.
21 September:  We have been very lucky to have had the assistance of some expert car mechanics in Tehran helping us with faults in our diesel fuel lines and repairs yesterday and today. Facing absence of available parts in Iran, they designed and made spare parts for our car while we were visiting Foreign Office department in central Tehran.
21 September:
We have been very lucky to have had the assistance of some expert car mechanics in Tehran helping us with faults in our diesel fuel lines and repairs yesterday and today. Facing absence of available parts in Iran, they designed and made spare parts for our car while we were visiting Foreign Office department in central Tehran.
...Foreign office
… Foreign office

 

Milestone Iran!

We made our first milestone, we are in Iran!
And have travelled through some delightful places such as Jolfa (near the border with Armenia), Tabriz, Hamedan, Kermanshah, visiting Takht-e Soleiman, Ali Sadr caves, Bisotun and Taq-e Bustan.
Driving here is truly madness with having been part of several near-accidents and once even being hit, fortunately only scraped the car.
We visited Babak Castle in the north, for which we had to pass through nomad camps (they make and sell bread, doug – yoghurt drink -, yoghurt, and carpets) and walk for an hour climbing the rocks and mountain until we reached the castle ruins themselves. It is an important historical site as Babak was the one fighting against the Arabs (Islam) and other invasions, being the last crusader/general of the Sassanid period. His weapon was revival of happiness, he kind of invented a ‘new’ religion, the Babak religion of happiness, as he needed to beat the invaders at their own games. The country continues to amaze me.
We are getting to places most Iranians would never make it to, finding not much used roads and driving through the dry, with here and there oasis like enclaves, landscape, with adobe houses along the road.
There was a ‘travellers’ park in Tabriz, kind of a camping with showers, toilets, kitchen, where Iranians put up their tents ((all the same model) the word for tent is ‘chador’) on the concrete while the grass is only used to picnic! The Iranian people are quite easy and laid back in that sense. We are so happy in our own little home, i.e. our car.
We visited the amazing Ali Sadr caves and camped in their car park, cool and quiet, before entering a very poche hotel in Hamedan for internet. Internet connection not very easy, lots of filters and extremely slow.
From the caves we went west and visited the truly remarkable Taq-e Bustan and Bisotun wall sculptures, centuries old. These are from long time before Islam and although everything is being done to discourage the traveller/tourist from seeing the true site, with perseverance and time, wading through the ‘tourist villages’ of traps to spend your money built around them (Ali Sadr caves and Ganjnameh in Hamedan), you’ll find them.
It was a long drive from Kermanshah to Tehran in one day and the beautiful drive through the green vineyards doesn’t exist anymore; no more wine production, so all vineyards raised to the ground. ‘Takestan’, however not green anymore, still grows some grapes which are small, sweet, delicious and become very sweet raisins if not eaten as grape. While we had thought the road through Qazvin would treat us with greenery and scenery, we were disappointed with it having turned into a desert type landscape and we could therefore also have chosen for the motorway through the real desert (but we didn’t as we thought that would be too monotonous!).
We drove till the evening fell, had to do a last stretch of motorway into Tehran. Fortunately Saeed’s parents live in the west, and although we chose a wrong turn initially, we made it in two hours from Qazvin. A warm welcome awaited us.
Now that we are in Tehran, our focus is organising visas for the Stans and getting the car serviced and checked. Once the visas are sorted, we will have a clearer idea about the coming two months.

Armenia! Attractive and challenging!

Wild camping in Armenia:)
Wild camping in Armenia:)
Haghartsin monestary renovations funded by the sheikh of Sharjah. Rewarded with a hotel complex next to the monestary  beautiful nevertheless:)
Haghartsin monastery renovations funded by the sheikh of Sharjah. Rewarded with a hotel complex next to the monastery beautiful nevertheless:)
Amberd fortress near Byurakan where the night before we got invited to spend the night at the place of a very kind Armenian family. We did not speak any common language but we had the most wonderful time together. Memorable kindness :)
Amberd fortress near Byurakan where the night before we got invited to spend the night at the place of a very kind Armenian family. We did not speak any common language but we had the most wonderful time together. Memorable kindness 🙂

 

Some postcards from Georgia!

This is Batumi!
This is Batumi!
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Mtskheta! Our first hotel stay on this journey and this is what it looked over in Georgia !
Breathtaking and beautiful..... After 6.5 kilometers of off-road driving into the mountains we arrived at (Gergeti) Tsminda Sameba church and this was where we found ourselves overlooking mount Kazbegi
Breathtaking and beautiful….. After 6.5 kilometers of off-road driving into the mountains we arrived at (Gergeti) Tsminda Sameba church and this was where we found ourselves overlooking mount Kazbegi

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