26 September: 4x4iran.com invited us for a weekend away, off-roading in the mountains and rain forests in North of Iran. We had a spectacular time. The sadness of leaving the family in Tehran was easier to deal with as our journey continues.27 September: Mil-e Radkaan tower, 1000 years old and situated in the valleys of Radkaan beyond Kordkuy city. 2 hours steep 4×4 climb through rain forest and mountains to reach. Now enjoying local bread and cheese and silence, mist and wind.… and herewith the actual tower!28 September: A pagan cemetery, world-unique(!), in north-east of Iran, near Khaled Nabi shrine, a 15 min walk from one of the three shrines. The cemetery: a celebration of life with tombstones of phalluses for men and butterflies/angels for women. 4 hours return journey from Gonbad Kavus, a 4×4 drive well-worth it! (Khaled Nabi was a Nestorian-Christian, see tiny white church with green roof above the spectacular sea of steppe hills). 30 September: Haram-e razavi, or holy shrine visit in Mashhad; no cameras allowed, but mobile phones are ok (logic?) and chador obliged.
30 September: Neyshabur, Omar Khayyam’s mausoleum; great Iranian astronomer, philosopher, sufi, poet, who is best known around the world for his ‘rubayat’. Killed by the Mongolian black army when they attacked Neyshabur, capital of Tabarestan, which used to be one of the ‘stan’ states of Iran. A peaceful contrast to our chaotic morning visit in Mashhad.
… and herewith the actual tower!
