Category Archives: Italy

Roses and Moon Shine and much more…

Our rhythm changes from time to place and day-to-day. It seems there is not just one rhythm we can go by as every country and even every place we visit, ask for flexibility and continuous adjustment. When in Italy, we had found a rhythm which worked well for both of us: we got up early, drove, had lunch along the way, did some shopping at the supermarket on the way, drove a little more, arrived somewhere that we could find along the way, took out our dual fuel stove, made food while preparing the car for the night. We have left the Europeanness behind us and have entered a different world; we are beyond Istanbul, going deeper and deeper into Turkey.

A lot of time is spent on practicalities, logistics and psychological challenges and a lot of the things we wish to do are not (YET) materialising. Hopefully in the near future;), who knows. It all sounded so exciting and adventurous but in reality, as usual, no matter where you are, life is about the day-to-day joys of simplicity: shopping (or tending and reaping your vegetables/eggs), cooking, eating and sleeping. And for us, travelling by car and enjoying beautiful and spectacular sceneries are added to that list. The joys we experience are in the silly, simple things such as comparing prices in countries and between places (diesel, food, sunshades for the car), finding a shower (at a fuel station if need be, going through the male toilet area, as it seems only they have a shower facility, none to find at the ladies toilets) and a good place to stay the night. Wild camping is becoming more the norm now. We need to fill up our water can!

No more camp sites with too many facilities (entertainment programmes!), but after a long drive, a drive through a village of three streets where the children were playing outside, responding to my waiving, and people came out of their houses to see the strangers passing through, we found a beautiful, steep slope; so steep that our excitement and fear were mixed while going down. But then again, our TLC is a 4×4 and should be able to coop with this. And it did (of course)! We set up camp for dinner and the night and as we were in the mountains, had a delightful, long night sleep as for the past two nights in Istanbul on the car park, where it had been boiling hot, our sleep pattern had been quite disrupted.

We are now enjoying a Turkish service station on the way to Ankara. They serve delicious food, have a market and the çay is TL1 (= £0.30) per little glass. They have free, open wifi and we found an extension lead to plug in computer(s) and mobile phone. People are kind, we went to the buffet to get some plates of food, comes the chef over to the table and puts a plate with bread (“Your husband must have forgotten to take it”, everyone takes bread after all) and while we are eating serves us an extra plate of ‘shirazi’ salad (finely chopped onion, cucumber, tomato). The waiter does not just take our tea glasses away, but asks if we want another cup. Ok, sales technique x, but there is a kind of service mindedness and kindness coming from them as well.
Saeed is momentarily outside having a long chat with his brother through Viber, a free app which allows you to phone and text. I find it more useful than Whatsup as you can also call and than Skype, as that seems to be too demanding on my mobile. Check it out, it may be interesting for you too.

 

 

Wandering!

Views from our friend's window....
View from our friend’s window….

We are in Cana, Roccalbegna to pay Fede and Phillip a visit in their ‘town house’ and ‘home on the hill’. The rain is following us, so a day of rest (i.e. doing laundry, finding out more about FB feeds into blog – and that this will not work for us as we do not have a public page -) and recovery from mosquito bites is a good thing.

Isola di San Giorgio

My friend Adam had recommended to visit and I was curious. The Basilica, the Monastry of the Cini Foundation, the Glass Museum and unfortunately no time for the glass Tea house.
I took the Vaporetto 2 from Piazzale Roma, a 40min boat journey, and was welcomed with sun and a beautiful work of art by Heinz Mack: The Sky over Nine Columns (http://www.cini.it/en/events/heinz-mack-sky-nine-columns-2), nine golden mosaic columns of over 7 meters, “as a manifestation of the human being standing upright, the column is the earliest element in the history of architecture and forms a direct relation between earth and sky. The golden mosaic consisting of over 800,000 tesserae is an example of the long tradition of local craftsmanship, representing Venice’s early cultural relations between Orient and Occident.”

After reading the information panels at the arrival on the island and perusing the island a bit, I bought a ticket for the tour of the Cini Foundation (http://www.cini.it/en/foundation/storia-della-fondazione).

We spent some time in the gardens of the monastry, which seven Benedictine monks inhabit. A well in one of the gardens and cypresses giving the island in times long passed the nick name of ‘Cypress island’. The Doge (person is chosen for this post, title not inherited from father-to-son) of the island of San Giorgio Maggiore hosted famous guests on the island, such as Frederik I (Redbeard) and Pope Alexander III.

Vittorio Cini constituted the Giorgio Cini Foundation on the island in honour of his son, Giorgio, who died of a plane crash when flying his private plane, to create an international cultural centre that reintegrates the island into the life of Venice.  To give back the past and give a new breath to the island.

The first room we entered hosts the magnificent facsimile of the ‘Wedding at Cana’ by Paolo Veronese, made by Factum Arte (http://www.factum-arte.com/pag/38/A-facsimile-of-the-Wedding-at-Cana-by-Paolo-Veronese). I had known about this work through Adam and to now see it live, was just incredible. A huge piece, of which the guide highlighted many aspects, i.e. imagine you are seated at a banquet in this refectory, sitting on the left side of the room, you observe the painting and notice that the freeze on the top right prolongs on the ceiling the room, so the painting is a continuation of the ceiling of the refectory. There are many more intricacies in this painting, it’s beautiful to see it in its original setting in this location.

From the gardens, we walked to the library entrance, the guide explaining the three different decorations on the columns: one is simple, to free the spirit; the next one is more decorated leading to freeing the mind; and the last columns are so decorated indicating another level of freeing the mind.

The baroque architect, Baldesari Longhena, opened up the spaces between the two cloisters and redesigned the library.
The libraries are magnificent, ebony sculptures on top of the shelves indicating which books are part of a specific section, such as Homerus. A new library next to it, both in use, with over 150,000 books on art and art history.
The last treat on this tour was the Borges labyrinth. In the form of a book, his name and several of his attributes carved into the buxes the labyrinth is made of. A well-spent few hours, to be home at base camp before the lightning and thunders started.

Venizia, Venice, Venetie, Veniz,…

I guess you all get the picture of where we have spent two days of enjoyment walking the bridges, getting lost – but not really as everywhere you go the Piazza San Marco, Ferrovia, Piazzale Roma, Rialto bridge and Accademia are indicated on the walls of the streets -, having too expensive coffee, and taking photos of wonderfully framed views.

After a night of wild camping on a parking, I am becoming more at ease with it, we drove into Venice for the experience of ‘arrival’ over the long bridge going to the island, a splendid view in the morning. Once checked into a campsite where the bus opposite takes a 10 min drive, we were back in Venice to make our way to the Piazza San Marco, the inner heart of the city, going through the little alley ways, small streets and over the many bridges. We ultimately arrived and the necessary photos to prove were taken;).

There is an interesting musical instruments exhibition on in the city, beautiful pieces to be admired and listened to during concerts in the many churches (http://www.interpretiveneziani.com/en/museo-della-musica.php). With a background music of mainly string instruments, the craftmanship of the mother-of-pearl inlays and the wood sculpture were delightful to see.

The next day we were debating to stay an extra day. I am so glad we did as we had another gorgeous walk into town, this time to the Rialto bridge. We managed to get a few good shots from one of the Vaporetto platforms. Finding a bakery where the locals go and a bar where they go too, is not the easiest to find. When paying attention, we found the bakery, but for a cup of coffee, we ended up in a bar along the way where both locals and tourists hang out. Nice, too expensive Americano and cappuccino.
Saeed went back to base and I went to the Isola di San Giorgio.

Back to Italy: the same mistake?

From Motovun in Croatia, we took the road to Buzet and entered Slovenia through the ‘back door’, a scenic route. A short while later, before you know it, we had entered Italy again. Immediately to Venice, or shall we visit this Venitian square in Udine first and find a camping in that neighbourhood? Ok, let’s do Udine and then we’ll see. This has turned out to not be the smartest way to play, as a camping might not turn up. The square in Udine had a stage set up which was being taken down, and at the tourist office, they sent us back 35km for a camping. We had received a list, and decided to go south, kind of in the direction of Venice, and find a camping there. Camping Girasole turned out to host a festival evening till 2am, not really what we were looking for, so we continued. Maybe in Bibione more luck as more focused on families. What do they have there? Whole ‘camping’ village with all the entertainment you can image! And at quite a rate!!! So again, not what we were looking for (at all). Our idea of camping and the Italians ideas differ here and there and a price of EUR35 per night at least is out of the question (we are travelling 9 months)!
So, the same mistake as we had made already before, just going in a direction and hoping to find a camping along the way. We need to prepare! It’s high season and campings are pretty full, so it would be smart to get organised;).

In the mean time, time had passed on and it was passed dinner time already, so we decided to get a pizza (what else?) along the road and pull through to Venice. Arriving at a camping, we decide on another night of wild camping (much easier and more at ease than the first time;)), and check in at a camping the next morning. Setting up on a pitch, having breakfast and getting ready for a visit of… Venice!

Following Slovenia: Croatia

Arriving from Slovenia, the motorway in this case, into Croatia, what was noticeable was a small village on a mountain ridge, not seen in Europe (yet). We arrived in Porec, which was our destination for a tango festival. But oh, how disappointed we were straight away: Porec seems to be a very pretentious sea side town, with campings more expensive than France, Italy and Slovenia! They clearly are looking to make money and nothing else; even at the ‘tourist information’ (something everyone can set up and which profession is not bound to any rules, so there are many to find in town – which one is the official one? There apparently was only one and he was overly busy with all the tourists who flood the place for ‘doing nothing, beach, drinking and fun’ – typically what we would be looking for;)).
After spending some time looking around, we found another village, Motovun, a lovely little Middle Age village 40min drive from Porec, where we decided to spend the night. We met some very nice Austrians, Gerhard & Christine, who recommended a delicious place to eat in the neighbourhood, restaurant Kodoba Dolina, a 7km drive away in the middle of nowhere. Fried squid for £3.50 and hand-made noodles with goulash for an equally good price. All topped with a home made ‘Schapps’ and cherry liqueur and some sweets, on the house.

We left the next day, although Motovun could have been lovely to visit. We felt too disappointed by our initial arrival and wanted to go back to Italy, on our way to friends.

A walk in the mountains

And what kind of mountains… the Dolomites in the north of Italy. The most important thing of the day that I had forgotten to write about in the previous post. Important – as it had taken me quite some convincing, but then it was of course my sweet husband who wanted to go further than planned;). We had a delightful walk up on one of the mountains of the ‘Five Peaks’, a well-spent 2 hours as break to our day and to get some exercise again;).

Italy

We have been warmly welcomed by our friend Ghazaal, who introduced us to her friends Siavash and Ali for a delightful stay in Torino, after we found our chosen camping had closed down and we would have been sleeping ‘in the street’ or it would have become our first night of wild camping. Instead we were offered kindness and chats in the comfort of another home which welcomed us.
Torino is a very lined/squared city (such as cities in the USA) and has several big squares, as well as the biggest square of Europe (when studying Urban Planning you know all these things!).  And then there is the river Po, for many a solace in this place.
After a magnificent breakfast and although pouring rain, we decided to continue our route through the north of Italy. Friday 4 to Saturday 5 July we spent on a camping just under Como.

And the next day… scenic routes along the Como lake! Small roads, challenging Italian drivers, but beautiful views, with a cup of cappuccino in Blevo, a little town at the lake. We went to Iseo, at Lago Iseo and found a camping at the lake, of course an invite to stay although its price was more than we had ever paid so far! Well worth the view, despite the loud Italian crowd which also stayed at this camping. Very idyllic, we found a spot between two olive trees and set up our table and chairs: guarantee for dinner at the lake!
And although the Netherlands was playing in the evening (World cup against Costa Rica), and our wish was to enjoy the starry sky for a while, we were in bed by 22h50, in for a wonderful nights sleep.

On Sunday we continued our journey to ultimately Nova Levante-Welschnofen. We had wanted to stop earlier, but the two campings we passed asked ridiculously high prices for a night’s stay (EUR 38!), that we decided to continue to the place we had had in mind in the first place and that we would see what we would find there. A parking in front of the tourism office awaited us, with on the other side of the river a little recreational area, even with toilets! They were open when we arrived, locked when we returned from our walk in the village after our dinner. A pity, but nevertheless, we decided to stay in the car, in the parking and try out our first night of ‘wild camping’. Quite scary I found, my mind busy and challenging to fall asleep. We have curtains all around, so nobody can see us, but still, what if…???
We were awake at 6h20 (a first this early!), moved all our stuff from the passenger front seat into the back and drove off, to stop straight away again for some breakfast at the local bakery (Naeckerly); delicious and a wonderful way to leave this hospitable village – Nova Levante!

For the last two days everything has been indicated on the road in both Italian and German. So finally I realised that the two names the cities here are made up of, are also Italian and German and that a city is not called i.e. ‘Bolzano-Bozen’, but Bolzano in Italian and Bozen in German.

Today we ended up at our last night in Italy for a moment; we are in Forni di Sopra in the Dolomites of northern Italy. The drive today has been spectacular, the mountains rugged and rough and the passes many (three in total, with the highest 2239m and the one with the most ‘tornanti’ (hairpin bends) had 33! So much for the incredible safe driving of my husband, thank you!!! At times so close to the edge and with crazy on-coming traffic, I was grateful that Saeed drove. But he, a fantastic driver is nothing without a great navigator next to him;).