Category Archives: Venice

Isola di San Giorgio

My friend Adam had recommended to visit and I was curious. The Basilica, the Monastry of the Cini Foundation, the Glass Museum and unfortunately no time for the glass Tea house.
I took the Vaporetto 2 from Piazzale Roma, a 40min boat journey, and was welcomed with sun and a beautiful work of art by Heinz Mack: The Sky over Nine Columns (http://www.cini.it/en/events/heinz-mack-sky-nine-columns-2), nine golden mosaic columns of over 7 meters, “as a manifestation of the human being standing upright, the column is the earliest element in the history of architecture and forms a direct relation between earth and sky. The golden mosaic consisting of over 800,000 tesserae is an example of the long tradition of local craftsmanship, representing Venice’s early cultural relations between Orient and Occident.”

After reading the information panels at the arrival on the island and perusing the island a bit, I bought a ticket for the tour of the Cini Foundation (http://www.cini.it/en/foundation/storia-della-fondazione).

We spent some time in the gardens of the monastry, which seven Benedictine monks inhabit. A well in one of the gardens and cypresses giving the island in times long passed the nick name of ‘Cypress island’. The Doge (person is chosen for this post, title not inherited from father-to-son) of the island of San Giorgio Maggiore hosted famous guests on the island, such as Frederik I (Redbeard) and Pope Alexander III.

Vittorio Cini constituted the Giorgio Cini Foundation on the island in honour of his son, Giorgio, who died of a plane crash when flying his private plane, to create an international cultural centre that reintegrates the island into the life of Venice.  To give back the past and give a new breath to the island.

The first room we entered hosts the magnificent facsimile of the ‘Wedding at Cana’ by Paolo Veronese, made by Factum Arte (http://www.factum-arte.com/pag/38/A-facsimile-of-the-Wedding-at-Cana-by-Paolo-Veronese). I had known about this work through Adam and to now see it live, was just incredible. A huge piece, of which the guide highlighted many aspects, i.e. imagine you are seated at a banquet in this refectory, sitting on the left side of the room, you observe the painting and notice that the freeze on the top right prolongs on the ceiling the room, so the painting is a continuation of the ceiling of the refectory. There are many more intricacies in this painting, it’s beautiful to see it in its original setting in this location.

From the gardens, we walked to the library entrance, the guide explaining the three different decorations on the columns: one is simple, to free the spirit; the next one is more decorated leading to freeing the mind; and the last columns are so decorated indicating another level of freeing the mind.

The baroque architect, Baldesari Longhena, opened up the spaces between the two cloisters and redesigned the library.
The libraries are magnificent, ebony sculptures on top of the shelves indicating which books are part of a specific section, such as Homerus. A new library next to it, both in use, with over 150,000 books on art and art history.
The last treat on this tour was the Borges labyrinth. In the form of a book, his name and several of his attributes carved into the buxes the labyrinth is made of. A well-spent few hours, to be home at base camp before the lightning and thunders started.

Venizia, Venice, Venetie, Veniz,…

I guess you all get the picture of where we have spent two days of enjoyment walking the bridges, getting lost – but not really as everywhere you go the Piazza San Marco, Ferrovia, Piazzale Roma, Rialto bridge and Accademia are indicated on the walls of the streets -, having too expensive coffee, and taking photos of wonderfully framed views.

After a night of wild camping on a parking, I am becoming more at ease with it, we drove into Venice for the experience of ‘arrival’ over the long bridge going to the island, a splendid view in the morning. Once checked into a campsite where the bus opposite takes a 10 min drive, we were back in Venice to make our way to the Piazza San Marco, the inner heart of the city, going through the little alley ways, small streets and over the many bridges. We ultimately arrived and the necessary photos to prove were taken;).

There is an interesting musical instruments exhibition on in the city, beautiful pieces to be admired and listened to during concerts in the many churches (http://www.interpretiveneziani.com/en/museo-della-musica.php). With a background music of mainly string instruments, the craftmanship of the mother-of-pearl inlays and the wood sculpture were delightful to see.

The next day we were debating to stay an extra day. I am so glad we did as we had another gorgeous walk into town, this time to the Rialto bridge. We managed to get a few good shots from one of the Vaporetto platforms. Finding a bakery where the locals go and a bar where they go too, is not the easiest to find. When paying attention, we found the bakery, but for a cup of coffee, we ended up in a bar along the way where both locals and tourists hang out. Nice, too expensive Americano and cappuccino.
Saeed went back to base and I went to the Isola di San Giorgio.

Back to Italy: the same mistake?

From Motovun in Croatia, we took the road to Buzet and entered Slovenia through the ‘back door’, a scenic route. A short while later, before you know it, we had entered Italy again. Immediately to Venice, or shall we visit this Venitian square in Udine first and find a camping in that neighbourhood? Ok, let’s do Udine and then we’ll see. This has turned out to not be the smartest way to play, as a camping might not turn up. The square in Udine had a stage set up which was being taken down, and at the tourist office, they sent us back 35km for a camping. We had received a list, and decided to go south, kind of in the direction of Venice, and find a camping there. Camping Girasole turned out to host a festival evening till 2am, not really what we were looking for, so we continued. Maybe in Bibione more luck as more focused on families. What do they have there? Whole ‘camping’ village with all the entertainment you can image! And at quite a rate!!! So again, not what we were looking for (at all). Our idea of camping and the Italians ideas differ here and there and a price of EUR35 per night at least is out of the question (we are travelling 9 months)!
So, the same mistake as we had made already before, just going in a direction and hoping to find a camping along the way. We need to prepare! It’s high season and campings are pretty full, so it would be smart to get organised;).

In the mean time, time had passed on and it was passed dinner time already, so we decided to get a pizza (what else?) along the road and pull through to Venice. Arriving at a camping, we decide on another night of wild camping (much easier and more at ease than the first time;)), and check in at a camping the next morning. Setting up on a pitch, having breakfast and getting ready for a visit of… Venice!