After our initial Iran journey, on the 22nd of October 2014, we took the boat to the United Arab Emirates. This turned out to be quite a challenge particularly since we weren’t the only car. (You may have read about this in a previous post, herewith a little refresher). We were joined by a rally of 8 Dutch (!) 4x4s. Initially I thought this would be a lovely meeting of minds, but I found out there was a bit of a ‘who-was-first and who-was-second’ competition going on (us being with one car, the group being with eight), which had us end up paying unnecessary overtime charges in the port of Sharjah if our Carnet de Passage would have been filled out first. In the end we were happy though to have arrived as it had taken us (read: Saeed) a whole day running around in Bandar (meaning: Port) Abbas to obtain all the necessary signatures and pay the fees due. This is NOT a simple ferry crossing as from the UK to NL… oh no, this is a cargo crossing of a vehicle for temporary export and a whole palava to get through. It seems that nobody of the port authorities themselves know exactly what the steps are, whom to go to, and in what sequence. In the end, Saeed had walked more than 6km (!) in the port to get everything done. Towards 16h, the people from the shipping company Valfajr, came over to check how far we were and what steps were still missing (we had been there from 8h45!) and assist where necessary. This meant that by 17h, all was done and we went out for our last kebab outside the port before going on board at 19h30 to leave by 20h(ish).
Upon arrival in Sharjah, there was another episode of signature collection and fees payable which resulted in leaving the port by 15h although we had arrived at 8h30. Due to the eight Dutch cars, we were delayed, but also enjoyed tucking in a feast of a lunch which the Sharjah customs officers shared with them and us. Apparently once a month, they are served ‘rice with meat’, an extravagant rice dish with meat (whole sheep’s heads), raisins, fresh herbs and salad. And they would share it with everyone who needed lunch: us! It was a warm welcome after a demanding two days of running around in ports!
So, we are in Sharjah. And where to go from here? We found some information regarding a marina in Umm Al Quwain, which offered campsites. When calling this turned out to be not the case. As online we found nothing else, we decided to head in that direction anyway and see what we would find. It became our second night too hot to sleep in the car, which meant we turned on the engine to cool the car with air conditioning, something I thought I would never allow. (The first night had been while still in Iran, when we stayed at a fuel station/truckers’ stop when it also had been just too hot). The next morning, we found a 24hrs cafe along the beach, where we had cheap teas… looking out over the waves. Next to us a Muslim couple with the lady wearing full hijab. I couldn’t believe my eyes when she walked fully covered into the sea for a swim! She came out, sat in the chair and had the sun dry her clothes. Hmmm, not sure how comfortable although it brought back memories of all those times we had to swim with clothes for the rescue squad (‘Reddingsbrigade’) we were a member of; not easy and pretty uncomfortable was what I remembered. A different world!
On our way to Dubai, I decided to call my friends at Hasenkamp, the company who assists with logistics and art handling at the art fairs October Gallery (OG) at times takes part in and which I organise for OG. We were welcomed with open arms and when explaining about our first night’s experience in the UAE, were invited home, and an apartment of a colleague was arranged for us. What incredible warm-hearted people and friends we have! Support comes out of the most amazing corners when you expect it the least.
We had a week the chance to acclamatise before we were to take on professional roles for OG to participate at Abu Dhabi Art beginning of November, which we had come over for initially. It was Saeed’s first time in the UAE and Dubai was glitz, science-fiction and well-designed highways. But where are the people behind the scenes, who make all this? Where do they live? Who are they? Good questions which were partly answered once we were looking for a campsite and Saeed drove into an area called ‘Camp’; rows of container like ‘houses’ where lots of Bangladeshi, Indian and Pakistani men walked around and were clearly living. Work camps. We later heard that the men are being picked up in a bus in the morning, taken to a construction site to work, taken back by bus in the evening. They often share a room with six, each having their own bed and cupboard which they pay rent for. They earn money they would not be able to earn in their homeland, send money back to the family and once every two, three or four years, goes home for a month. There is an Emirati filmmaker, I believe it is called Veritas Films, who made a documentary about singing in the work camps. Very interesting.
A week in Dubai ended up being lots of rest, some website updating, some shopping mall activities (loved the aquarium in Dubai Mall), getting my return Iran visa sorted, a hairdresser’s appointment, visiting the galleries area in Alserkal Avenue where more friends showed up, this time from Showcase Gallery and preparations for the art fair.
On Saturday morning, we headed from Dubai to Abu Dhabi to start on the first day of set up of the fair. We had customs check our crates, although the gentleman was more interested in our travel story than in the content of the crates;). We then were able to empty the crates, organise the works in a way we could start installing the next day when also Chili and Elisabeth, the directors of the gallery, would be there, as well as Rachid Koraichi, the artist of several of the works which would be displayed in our booth. The emptying of the crates was quite some work for the two of us, but with the assistance from many Hasenkamp friends, even the huge 2m80 bronze sculpture of 250kg was already taken out of its crate. So glad we got so much done in preparation for Sunday.
Starting midday, everything was hung and stood by 22h when it was time to go to our 5* hotel we were enjoying this week. Ahhhhh, what a change from sleeping in a car with diesel engine (i.e. tractor noise) running. Being busy every day that week with fair activities before opening hours and then the fair itself, it was highly appreciated to rest the night peacefully without any safety and security worries.
Although we didn’t sell everything, it had been an interesting fair and Saeed and I were very happy to have been there for OG and ourselves. We ended up with some wonderful relations and hope to stay in touch and see each other again.
Our journey continued again in travelers’ mode. We headed for Al Ain, discovered the camel market and a date palm oasis where we met an Irish nurse who had been head-hunted and with whom we got lost. One of the guards in his golf trolley had made a suggestion to us to walk in a different direction, but I guess I was a bit too convinced of my personal navigation skills and therefore we kept walking, alas, in the wrong direction. When we ended up at an entrance where our cars were not, Saeed asked for assistance. The guard with the buggy ‘found us’ as he knew his way through the labyrinth delivered us to our cars. Pfew, we really need to start using Maps.me to our advantage and bookmark where we park the car;). We travelled back and forth to Abu Dhabi for a quick visit with the Dutch ambassador and a spontaneous lunch with our Dutch photographer friends, Erik & Petra Hesmerg, in the shopping mall designed by Norman Foster, though non-typical for him in use of material as made with wooden structures.