All posts by Stefani

Post cards…Iran (8) central, Meibod, Naien and Chak-Chak

10 October: entrance to the caravanserai in Naien.
10 October: entrance to the caravanserai in Naien.
10 October: courtyard of the caravanserai of Naien.
10 October: courtyard of the caravanserai of Naien.
10 October: Meibod, the eldest adobe city in the world, over 5000 years old! At the edge of the desert, Meibod has a "post house", "Natural Ice House" both over 2000 years old and a restored Caravanserai from Safavid dynasty built in the 16th century. A lovely little gem, we spent sometime walking in its small ally ways, .....an historically rich, but tired old city.
10 October: Meibod, the eldest adobe city in the world, over 5000 years old! At the edge of the desert, Meibod has a “post house”, “Natural Ice House” both over 2000 years old and a restored Caravanserai from Safavid dynasty built in the 16th century. A lovely little gem, we spent sometime walking in its small ally ways, …..an historically rich, but tired old city.
10 October: Chak-Chak or drip-drip in English, Zoroastrian temple, major pilgrimage place for Zoroastrians, between gorgeous mountains in the desert 80km from Yazd. Very spiritual and moving place. Also called 'the old green man' because of the old tree, receiving water from the cliff rocks dripping down, around which the temple has been built.
10 October: Chak-Chak or drip-drip in English, Zoroastrian temple, major pilgrimage place for Zoroastrians, between gorgeous mountains in the desert 80km from Yazd. Very spiritual and moving place. Also called ‘the old green man’ because of the old tree, receiving water from the cliff rocks dripping down, around which the temple has been built.

Yazd, 2nd time: tlc for TLC

This time, Yazd came to our rescue as the engine cooling radiator pipes had given up. While on the road in the direction of Yazd, we noticed that the temperature gauge had gone up. As we had just come down a mountain and the weather was hot, we thought we give the car a little rest and it should be fine. After half an hour, we went on the road again, but almost immediately the gauge went up again. Checking the water, there was water in the overflow reservoir. So Saeed said: “I am going to do something dangerous”, and opened the actual radiator (not to be done when the engine is hot!) which turned out to be empty! As we had done a stop and go two times, we had been noticed and police stopped kindly to help. They offered us their bottles of water to fill up the radiator (“Don’t use your mineral water for that”, not knowing that we had filled our mineral water bottles with tap water;)), and suggested we stop at the mosque 5km further down the road to get more water and buy coolant.
We stopped at the mosque, where we bought coolant and added it together with more water to the radiator. Lots of trucks around filling their ‘ice’ reservoirs, of which I took many photos. I have become very fond of trucks and discovered so many different types!

We continued to Yazd, but were being held at a police check point for unnecessary curiousness and nosiness. What we noticed however, Continue reading Yazd, 2nd time: tlc for TLC

Criss crossing Iran, delightful encounters

“So, how did you travel through Iran?” Our itinerary may not have been the most logic to follow, but we had our reasons!
Due to our previous good experience with extending my visa in Shiraz, we wanted to be there again to do the same and that meant taking some routes that we might have done differently if a visa extension would not have been necessary and time wasn’t running out. This allowed us however, to pass twice through Shiraz and Yazd, two cities we both love.

After our first Yazd visit, we continued on to Shiraz with only focus to obtain a visa extension, which we received for three weeks. Once received, we could relax and start preparing the next travels through Iran. This took us east to Kerman via Meymand, trodlodyte city where people still live in caves. Upon entering the village, Continue reading Criss crossing Iran, delightful encounters

Post cards… (6) central to south east, Meymand, Kerman, Mahan

8 October: Meymand, troglodyte village in central south Iran, going back in time for nearly 5000 years. People still live here and do good trade with the tourists.
8 October: Meymand, troglodyte village in central south Iran, going back in time for nearly 5000 years. People still live here and do good trade with the tourists.
27 October: Shahzadeh Garden, Mahan, south of Kerman, which is located in the east. Mahan is known for Mahan Food products.
8 October: Shahzadeh Garden, Mahan, south of Kerman, which is located in the east. Mahan is known for Mahan Food products.
8 October: Kerman, square of the bazaar with a badgir, the traditional, natural air conditioning system.
8 October: Kerman, square of the bazaar with a badgir, the traditional, natural air conditioning system.
8 October: Kerman, roof of the bazaar with lovely paintings.
8 October: Kerman, roof of the bazaar with lovely paintings.
8 October: Nemat'alah Vali shrine in Mahan. Vali was a sufi of the 16th century, whose shrine is set in this gorgeous tranquil garden. We liked it so much we visited it twice.
8 October: Nemat’alah Vali shrine in Mahan. Vali was a sufi of the 16th century, whose shrine is set in this gorgeous tranquil garden. We liked it so much we visited it twice.

Post cards Iran (5), south, Shiraz

2 October: We are once again enjoying being at Hafezieh, celebrating our beloved poet Hafez,  Shiraz is beautiful and kind as always.
2 October: We are once again enjoying being at Hafezieh, celebrating our beloved poet Hafez, Shiraz is beautiful and kind as always.
6 October:  Naghsh-e Rajab, named after the local tea house owner, near Persepolis.
6 October: Naghsh-e Rajab, named after the local tea house owner, near Persepolis.
6 October: Naghsh-e Rostam, named after a mythological figure and super hero of the Shahnameh. Herewith the Zoroastrian fire temple (ateshkadeh) on the sight.
6 October: Naghsh-e Rostam, named after a mythological figure and super hero of the Shahnameh. Herewith the Zoroastrian fire temple (ateshkadeh) on the sight.
6 October: Stefani having fun with Fatimeh and her brother.
6 October: Stefani having fun with Fatimeh and her brother.
6 October: Pasargad, just 135km from Shiraz,... place of rest for Cyrus the Great. One of the most moving places we have been to in Iran. The greatest king of Iranian Empire has the simplest memorial ever imagined.
6 October: Pasargad, just 135km from Shiraz,… place of rest for Cyrus the Great. One of the most moving places we have been to in Iran. The greatest king of Iranian Empire has the simplest memorial ever imagined.

Yazd

Our arrival in Yazd after a whole day of nothingness through the desert was very welcome, although it was from one extreme, quietness on the road, not much going on, to another of city busyness, lots of cars and noise.
First stop: the Zoroastrian fire temple (ateshkadeh) where the fire has been burning for many long centuries. The sign of Zoroaster, the Farvahar, embellishes the building. We were just in time before closure and so enjoyed the sunset at this delightful place.
Then on our way to the park-e mosafer or traveller’s park to park for the night. We were directed to Haft-e tir park at a very busy road. After having driven the whole day though, we were happy to just stop and have a simple dinner on a bench in the park. A stroll into Yazd had us pass and enter an ice cream shop and notice was taken of an Italian (!) coffee shop, which was closed but to be kept in mind. Upon our return to the car, the parking attendant Continue reading Yazd

We continue…Iran (4), Central

30 September: the desert road beckoned us to move on and pass through, long stretches of nothingness starting in Damghan, ancient city to stock up for the journey ahead, passing the city of Jandaq to Yazd.
30 September: the desert road beckoned us to move on and pass through, long stretches of nothingness starting in Damghan, ancient city to stock up for the journey ahead, passing the city of Jandaq to Yazd.
1 October: Bagh-e dolat abad with 33m high badgir, towers that act(ed) as natural air conditioning system for the houses in central Iran. They also maintain cool temperatures over the underground canals (qanats) and water storage tanks to reduce water evaporation for the city.
1 October: Bagh-e dolat abad with 33m high badgir, towers that act(ed) as natural air conditioning system for the houses in central Iran. They also maintain cool temperatures over the underground canals (qanats) and water storage tanks to reduce water evaporation for the city.
1 October: We have spent the night here in Yazd, one of the oldest cities in Iran where Zoroastrians still live in large numbers. The fire temple in this city had been having the sacred fire burning continuously since 1550 yeas ago which was brought to it from another temple further north of Yazd called Ardakan.
1 October: We have spent the night here in Yazd, one of the oldest cities in Iran where Zoroastrians still live in large numbers. The fire temple in this city had been having the sacred fire burning continuously since 1550 yeas ago which was brought to it from another temple further north of Yazd called Ardakan.

 

More post cards from Iran (3), the North

26 September: 4x4iran.com invited us for a weekend away, off-roading in the mountains and rain forests in North of Iran. We had a spectacular time. The sadness of leaving the family in Tehran was easier to deal with as our journey continues.
26 September: 4x4iran.com invited us for a weekend away, off-roading in the mountains and rain forests in North of Iran. We had a spectacular time. The sadness of leaving the family in Tehran was easier to deal with as our journey continues.
27 September: Mil-e Radkaan tower, 1000 years old and situated in the valleys of Radkaan beyond Kurdkoy city. 2 hours steep 4x4 climb through rain forest and mountains to reach. Now enjoying local bread and cheese and silence, mist and wind.
27 September: Mil-e Radkaan tower, 1000 years old and situated in the valleys of Radkaan beyond Kordkuy city. 2 hours steep 4×4 climb through rain forest and mountains to reach. Now enjoying local bread and cheese and silence, mist and wind.... and herewith the actual tower!… and herewith the actual tower!
28 September: A pagan cemetery, world-unique(!), in north-east of Iran, near Khaled Nabi shrine, a 15 min walk from one of the three shrines. The cemetery: a celebration of life with tombstones of phalluses for men and butterflies/angels for women.  4 hours return journey from Gonbad Kavus, a 4x4 drive well-worth it! (Khaled Nabi was a Nestorian-Christian, see tiny white church with green roof to the right above the spectacular sea of steppe hills).
28 September: A pagan cemetery, world-unique(!), in north-east of Iran, near Khaled Nabi shrine, a 15 min walk from one of the three shrines.
The cemetery: a celebration of life with tombstones of phalluses for men and butterflies/angels for women.
4 hours return journey from Gonbad Kavus, a 4×4 drive well-worth it!
(Khaled Nabi was a Nestorian-Christian, see tiny white church with green roof above the spectacular sea of steppe hills). ... and the shrine itself.
30 September: Haram-e razavi, or holy shrine visit in Mashhad; no cameras allowed, but mobile phones are ok (logic?) and chador obliged.
30 September: Haram-e razavi, or holy shrine visit in Mashhad; no cameras allowed, but mobile phones are ok (logic?) and chador obliged. 

Iran16 Masshad

30 September: Neyshabur, Omar Khayyam's mausoleum; great Iranian astronomer, philosopher, sufi, poet, who is best known around the world for his 'rubayat'. Killed by the Mongolian black army when they attacked Neyshabur, capital of Tabarestan, which used to be one of the 'stan' states of Iran. A peaceful contrast to our chaotic morning visit in Mashhad.
30 September: Neyshabur, Omar Khayyam’s mausoleum; great Iranian astronomer, philosopher, sufi, poet, who is best known around the world for his ‘rubayat’. Killed by the Mongolian black army when they attacked Neyshabur, capital of Tabarestan, which used to be one of the ‘stan’ states of Iran. A peaceful contrast to our chaotic morning visit in Mashhad.

Travelling through Iran, from Tehran north, east to central

We have had the amazing luxury of travelling for seven (!) weeks through this amazing country with its incredible historical sights.

When in Tehran, we had to make the hard decision to deviate from our initial dream to visit the Stans. We put two and two together and realised it would be a very challenging situation due to weather conditions changing rapidly into winter, therefore road availability questionable, time and monies needed to obtain all required visas and (responsibility and loyalty kicking in) being  on time in Abu Dhabi for Abu Dhabi Art beginning of November. Five weeks would not be enough to see all the five Stans, not even to see four, three, not even two (only Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan), as upon our return we would have to cross Iran from north to south to take the ferry to the United Arab Emirates from Bandar Abbas and that would take at least three days flat out ONLY driving. We decided to spend far more time than initially planned, in Iran.

From Tehran we went into the mountains of Kelardascht, off-roading with 4x4Iran.com, a wonderful bunch. For the first time Continue reading Travelling through Iran, from Tehran north, east to central